How Far Is The Han Chinese Clothing From The "Big Industry"?

"Do you have a robe for expansion? Stay Q."

Robe, Hanfu lover.

Expand, make friends, Z generation "slang".

The new wave of clanpers collide with the property of the century ago.

On the other hand is a national cultural meaning called "revival and inheritance". On the other side, it is pursuing the small crowd, the trend and the independence and independence.

In 2002, the netizen of Shaanxi, known as "Chinese blood vessel", published the "lost civilization Han nationality dress" in the Sina naval knowledge network edition military history forum, calling for a revival of folk Hanfu culture.

In 2003, Wang Letian was dressed up as the first enthusiast to wear Chinese clothes to the streets.

Over the next sixteen years, Hanfu has constantly entered the public view in various forms such as sacrificial activities, TV variety shows and folk classrooms.

Relying on the development of Internet and mobile Internet, with the progress of technology, the boundary of Hanfu culture communication has been widened.

From the previous post bar to micro-blog, to today's B station, the traditional voice has entered the process of being accepted by modern culture, but it needs careful mention of "integration".

The beginning of the new entry into Hanfu bar, "mountain", "change", have become veritable "pit".

The original design represented by the original design is difficult to guard against Shanzhai phenomenon. Most of the newcomers do not have the ability to identify, but what can be seen from the latter is that in this circle of lovers, the traditional camps and the improved faction are divided into two main camps, arguing for a long time.

In addition, because of the lack of industry standard recognition, the recognition of Hanfu itself often falls behind its dissemination.

In the process, it is constantly being "stigmatized".

"Now the market is rather chaotic. The Hanfu that can be searched on the Internet has no shape reference. Many can not be called Hanfu, but it can not be called an improved Hanfu."

"Afoxmeng" is rather helpless.

The 24 year old girl is an Internet finance professional in Shanghai. At B station, she is a well-known Chinese clothing UP owner with about one hundred thousand fans.

Xu Jiao is not enough.

In 2016, pan two fashion fashion star Brand Company and Xu Jiao jointly built Hanfu electric business brand "weaving Feather set". Xu Jiao played the role of "son" in the Stephen Chow movie "Yangtze River seven". In his personal life, he was also a well-known two cultural enthusiasts. Especially in 2016, Hanfu took part in Hunan TV variety show "Idol".

Setting foot in the electricity supplier is the most simple and direct way to realize this hobby. In March of next year, weaving Feather set directly took millions of sales.

For Han Fu Hui, nothing more than that.

Its founder, Liu Yinhong, described the "mall and community as our two legs".

Liu Yinhong high school came into contact with Hanfu, because he liked to see costume drama. In 2013, he created an interest website in his spare time for his hobbies. He spent 14 years, after accumulating a batch of users on the website, he sprouted his entrepreneurial ideas, and then he started his Hanfu.

In fact, at the beginning of its establishment, Hanfu was only positioned in the online communication community. With the increasing number of platform users, according to the needs of users, 15 years ago, Hanfu began to conduct on-line shopping guide modules to help users screen regular Taobao Han clothes merchants.

"Because 80% of the businesses on Taobao are sold under the banner of Hanfu, selling informal Shanzhai outfits or studio buildings."

Liu Yinhong explained that for real Hanfu fans, this is not recognized by the mainstream circles.

On the one hand is the needs of users, on the other hand, the platform also needs to solve the problem of commercial liquidation.

In October 16, Hanfu Hui formally launched the e-commerce channel and made its own platform for trading.

Last year, the company achieved a revenue balance.

In September 2017, due to the success of the "weaving feather collection" jointly built by Xu Jiao, Yi Yi Xing Hui was awarded the 20 million yuan Angel round financing from the perilous peak Changqing leading investment, Chen Hai capital, East Lake Angel Fund and AC capital.

But not all brands have such good luck - "bumping" just like Xu Jiao in Hanfu.

Since its establishment, Hanfu has not yet had its financing record.

Liu Yinhong said frankly that he did not have no contact with investment institutions. "It has always been looking for financing, and the lack of financing experience is one aspect. On the other hand, investors may not know much about the industry".

More importantly, in the eyes of investors, this is a low ceiling industry.

According to the analysis report of Taobao and Tmall platform Hanfu sales data released in 2018, 2018, the total sales volume of the two platform Hanfu is 921 million yuan.

This figure is not very optimistic.

Last year's Alibaba double eleven, a single day turnover is 213 billion 500 million yuan.

Among them, the top ten of sales accounted for over 30% of sales.

Industry vertical media "Hanfu information" has made rough statistics on the output value of Taobao Hanfu business in 2018.

Data show that the total output value in 2018 ranked first in Han Shang Hua Lian about 80 million, returned to Han and Tang times, 50 million, third in the Department of more than 13 million, about 37 million.

On the whole, the top ten businesses, including Lan Ruoting, Zhong Lingji, pear blossom crossing, Hua Chao Ji, capital Nanzhuang, Lun Yan Xi Ling and Hua Zi Yi, have created 317 million output value.

In any case, compared to the huge volume of pactions on the platform, Hanfu is always only a small cup.

However, business scale and sales volume are part of the ceiling, and the ceiling is also reflected in the unit price.

In the fourth year of swallow reading, the girl who likes Hanfu from junior high school has saved 7 or 8 sets of clothes before and after.

"College students have limited economy, and a garment is usually around two hundred or three hundred."

At the same time, she also frankly said that a more than 500 Hanfu is the best, "good-looking, quality is OK, but not every student can afford it".

Swallows are representative enough.

According to the previous questionnaire survey of Hanfu information, the highest acceptance rate of Han clothing price was between 100-300, and the proportion was 50.32%. Secondly, as long as they liked more than 500 yuan, it could also be followed by 31.47%, 300-500, accounting for 16.47%, and the proportion below 100 yuan was 1.74%.

For fast wear accessories, the price of a single pen is not lower than 100 yuan, but it is different from the western style cut used in modern clothing, and Hanfu is somewhat special in the way of production and production.

First of all, the shape of Hanfu itself poses higher requirements for its workmanship, tailoring, and so on.

The swallow told him that he was more inclined to buy tiling.

The so-called "tiling" refers to the deployment of a piece of clothing unfolded, and it is a complete, neat cloth.

"Because the Hanfu is flat cut, if the flat is not smooth enough, its shape is not very standard."

She explained.

To do this, she needs to observe the details of whether the dress is tilted, the front and back seam and suture.

Because of the demand for ready-made clothes, a number of buyers have gone on the way of customization.

B station UP main afoxmeng introduced, from the beginning, concerned about Hanfu clothes less than five hundred yuan, now she tends to customize.

This is not simple.

For afoxmeng, who has part of the design work, an ordinary Hanfu needs to pick the bottom cloth first, buy the cloth, then draw the design draft, and send the two to embroidered mother.

When the embroidered maid is finished, it will be sent again, and afoxmeng will go to the tailor's tailor's shop. It will tell the seller to send the finished product back and ignore the complicated communication, which is a very complicated matter.

"The main thing is time cost."

Afoxmeng frankly, "cheap is about six hundred seven hundred sets".

It is learnt that such custom-built businesses usually do not have long shelf life, and generally start to customize after a limited time. In the long term accumulation of word-of-mouth, businesses will gradually form their own customer base. It will be difficult for outsiders to know.

On the other side, most of the custom shops that are located in two or three lines of cities such as Hangzhou and Jiangxi are mostly tailors, and less than twenty.

Afoxmeng also revealed that Hanfu customization is not new, and as the buyers demand more stringent requirements for their workmanship, well-known shops in the industry are also hard to get places.

Founded in 2007, Ming Hua Tang is the representative brand of high-end Hanfu.

According to its official website, it is currently engaged in high-end apparel research and development business, including Hanfu professional research, clothing handcrafting, fabric research and development and recovery.

Take a set of "flying fish cloud shoulder sleeve sleeve makeup flower Zhijin yarn (suit)" for example, its price is around 10000 yuan.

In addition, the official website shows that the time limit for this well-known shop has been discharged until the end of next October.

As a matter of fact, Taobao stores, who are heading for mass production, are not "worry free" either.

According to the cloud network, because of the limited volume of the market, there are always a large number of odd pieces, and there are hundreds of them.

And the uncertainty of future sales volume of merchants often abandons the habit of storing traditional clothes and accessories.

"If we want to solve this dilemma, the market will get bigger and bigger, or some big investors will put in resources."

A user named Tang Wan said at a Hanfu forum.

Internet is also lost, Internet?

Practitioners love and hate the Internet.

Post bar, micro-blog, B station, shaking voice and communication form are constantly changing, and Hanfu has gradually entered the mainstream field of vision.

Afoxmeng said, first of all, the Internet has played a great role in expanding the recognition of Hanfu clothing. "People who thought they were Han clothes, kimono or costume costumes are now aware that this is Hanfu".

But this is not smooth and the road is difficult.

Generally speaking, Hanfu does not refer to Han Dynasty costumes, but to Han nationality traditional costumes, and the mainstream is Han and Tang Wei.

Statistics show that both sales account for up to 90%.

So far, there are still some improvements in traditional Chinese dress. The former thinks that in order to conform to the modern habit of dressing, the former can be moderately improved. The latter thinks that this represents a kind of orthodox culture and needs to guard the traditional rules.

To this end, Hanfu fans often gather "Hanfu bar" frequently erupting "mouth war", and also lead many people to run away.

However, Liu Yinhong told cloud network that in fact, most people in the circle are no longer controversial.

"Orthodoxy does not necessarily mean copying things, it will still have its own basis, and make some improvements on the basis of existing ones."

In his view, most of the boycotts were plagiarism and studio building.

Afoxmeng also believes that the details of the original shape adjustment are suitable for modern application scenarios, such as fabric, pattern, size and so on, but "outline and production structure can not be changed".

However, the more important problem is that the market is chaotic and there are too many fish in the mix. Many of them do not understand because they think they are buying Hanfu.

"We can not call it Hanfu, nor can it be called an improved Hanfu. The traditional costume should have cultural relics and reference materials, and many so-called" Hanfu "on the market is actually similar to the costume costume of the imagined costume. People are much more aware of it.

A trend is that there are more and more Han Chinese bloggers on the pitch.

Afoxmeng is not entirely recognized. In her view, there are many mixed up in the photo studio to imitate Chinese clothes. These direct appeals are "KOL" who earn money. After the resale of their clothes, they are mostly copied by Shanzhai.

However, I have to say that the psychology of the insiders is contradictory, and the feeling of the swallow is very direct.

She did not dare to go back to her home in Han costume. She was surprised to find that she had been surprised by the fact that her relatives had brushed the video on the trill and was more open to Hanfu.

Hanfu is also one of the beneficiaries.

Liu Yinhong noticed that since the second half of last year, the fire of Hanfu on the jitter has begun to drive the growth of fans.

He disclosed that in recent years, investment institutions have taken the initiative to find them.

The double-edged sword of the network, the disadvantage is that every tiny conflict will be magnified infinitely.

From the beginning of this year, star Sun Nan sent his daughter to a school called "Huaxia Palace", which was mockery by the group. To Wu Tai's cherry blossoms, because of the frequent occurrence of clothing problems, the public opinion spread rapidly to the Hanfu circle under the blessing of celebrity effects and sensitive topics, and the negative effects deepened step by step.

Publicly available data show that the average age of Hanfu lovers is 21.03 years, with the highest proportion of 19~24 years old, 52.14%.

In the mainstream of high school and polytechnic school, this traditional thing is being praised by the new generation.

"Everyone will pursue beauty."

In afoxmeng's view, looking good is the most direct reason to like it.

At the same time, after 95 and 00, they usually pursue different personalities.

Liu Yinhong feels that apart from the ability of young people to accept new things, it is also related to the development trend of China's cultural industry.

These include the two dimension of the continuous development of the national wind plate in the community.

Regardless of online community and offline activities, they are trying to introduce Hanfu related, creating conditions for the development of Hanfu.

Taking B station as an example, because of the need for continuous output, the cost of afoxmeng buying Hanfu and shooting is not low. She revealed to the cloud network that most of its revenue comes from wages, while at B station there will be a certain amount of subsidy, accounting for 20%~30% of total income.

B station UP main afoxmeng part works

According to the data of CIC, in 2017, China had reached 250 million users in two yuan, and the industrial market scale had reached 100 billion yuan.

Minority culture began to win the mainstream two yuan recognized, and increasingly powerful, and as a member of the pan two dimensional field, Hanfu or some day will usher in its own spring.

The core of many problems in the industry lies in the carnival of "Z generation".