"Costume Culture Of National Costume 23" Tujia Costume

　　 Tujia minority They are distributed in Longshan, Yongshun, Baojing, Guzhang and other counties and counties of Xiangxi, Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture of Hunan Province, Hubei, Enshi, Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture. Their ancestors were directly related to the ancient Ba people.

Tujia people call themselves "Bizi card", meaning the locals. Believe in primitive religion and worship ancestors. There are more than 570.4 people. Tujia people have their own language. Most people speak Chinese. At present, only a few settlements still retain Tujia language. Without Chinese characters, the Chinese language is commonly used.

The traditional houses of Tujia nationality are mainly four types of thatched houses, brick houses, wooden frame houses, and hanging feet. Besides, there are stone houses and rock caves. The residential buildings are divided into the main houses, the wing rooms and the divisions. Tujia people generally live together, and folk houses form their own communities. The hanging tower is a dry wooden building with all wooden structure. It is one of the main residence forms of Tujia people. The structure of Tujia people's residence is generally one and two hatchs (one with one compartment), of which the wing is a hanging building. The hanging tower of the Tujia family in Western Hubei has a balcony and two corridors on each side. As a whole, architecture, painting and carving art is an outstanding representative of Tujia architectural sculpture.

Tujia people are mainly engaged in agriculture, weaving and embroidery are traditional crafts of Tujia women.

Tujia people attach great importance to traditional festivals, especially in the new year. Every household will kill the year pig, make mung bean powder, boil rice wine or sip wine. Pork and vegetable dishes are essential for Tujia people to celebrate New Year and festivals. The annual lunar calendar February 2nd is called the "social day". Zongyang Festival eats zongzi. Glutinous rice cake is one of the most popular foods among Tujia people.

It is also known as the year of the cloak coat. That is to say, on the twenty-nine lunar new year, Lunar New Year twenty-eight is different from others.
The new year of the brotherhood. It is said that in the Ming Dynasty, Japanese pirates harassed the southeast coast of China. The Japanese soldiers were frustrated by the enemy's resistance. They organized the soldiers to fight against Japanese pirates, and restricted the thirty day's departure on the twelfth lunar month. In order to start on schedule, the Tujia ancestors went to the front to crack down on the Japanese pirates, so they celebrated the day ahead of schedule. Later, in order to inherit and carry forward the patriotic spirit of the ancestors, the descendants of the descendants still celebrated their patriotic spirit one day ahead of time.

According to the ancestral home, on the day of the lunar new year, the owner of a house gets up at midnight. It is not allowed to light the lamp, to cook the food in black, to cut vegetables without a knife, to make the meat into a mess, and to put the bean curd into chunks, to twist the vegetables into a continuous dish, to cook a whole pot, and to fill a basin. In commemoration of our ancestors, we used sun baskets or shaded clothes to cover up in today's peaceful environment.

The daughter's club, formerly known as the "ten shed girls' meeting", is a popular festival for the young Tujia people who are popular in the lime kiln and the peak area of Enshi. July 2nd is the date of the daughter's meeting. On this day, all the young men and women from all walks of life in Xuanen, Jianshi and Hefeng within seventy or eighty miles are coming to the meeting.

Tujia people usually have three meals a day, usually having two meals while they are free. They eat four meals when they are busy in spring and summer and labor intensity is great. Such as rice transplanting season, in the morning to add a "premature", "premature" mostly glutinous rice dumplings or mung bean powder, a kind of snacks. It is said that "breakfast" is a good breakfast and a good luck. Tujia people also like cooking oil and tea soup. The drinking of Tujia people, especially in festivals or hospitality, is essential. Among them, sweet wine and sip wine made from glutinous rice and sorghum are commonly used.

Tujia people attach great importance to etiquette. They must greet each other and have guests at home. Tujia people usually have a poor diet. If there is a guest, they can have a bowl of sticky rice wine in the summer. First, they can eat a bowl of boiled rice balls in winter, and then treat them with wine and delicacies. Generally speaking, guests are asked to eat tea, such as Camellia oleifera, rice or glutinous rice balls, poached eggs and so on.

"Crying Marriage" is the traditional custom of Tujia people. The bride began to cry more than half a month before marriage, and some cried more than a month, at least three or five days. Tujia people also regard singing as a sign of women's intelligence and virtue. Crying for marriage songs include "crying parents", "crying elder brother's wife", "crying uncle", "crying sister", "crying matchmaker", "crying hair comb", "crying for flowers", "crying father leaving the mother", "crying ancestor", "crying on the sedan chair" and so on. Accompanying ten sisters is a unique form of crying for Tujia girls. On the night before the bride's wedding, her parents invited 9 unmarried girls in their neighborhood, and even 10 of the bride sat around the table and sang all night, so they called the ten sisters' songs. The ten sisters sat around a table. First, the bride cried "ten pendulum", the bride cried, "the pendulum", the cook put the same dish on the table, after the end, the remaining nine sisters cried in turn, and finally the bride cried "ten", the chef again the same as the same, the dishes were collected, the dishes finished, accompanied by ten sisters activities ended. "Mao Gusi" is a play performed at festivals, mainly in dialogue, sometimes in chorus or duet, and performed in Pingba. The performer was wrapped in straw and three or four grass braids on his head. The leader is called "old Mao Gusi", and the rest is called "Xiao Mao Gusi".

The history of Tujia nationality was recorded in Song Dynasty as early as the Song Dynasty. However, in this period and before Song Dynasty, all documents did not specifically talk about the dress of Tujia people. It was not until the Qing Dynasty that Tujia costumes were officially loaded into the literature. When the Tujia ancestors were in the age of primitive tribes, they did not know how to spin and weave. They only had to wear grass roots, animal skins and so on. In the old song and dance "Mao Gusi" and "Waving Dance", there had been straw hairs and images of soil covered with flowers. During the five generation of Kaiping, the Han nationality of Jiangxi, the chief of the Han Dynasty, returned to Chu, and was named as the governor of the Xizhou Prefecture, where thousands of people and craftsmen entered the area where Tujia people lived. In the Song Dynasty, Tujia brocade technology developed to a very high level and was listed as a tribute to the imperial court. The history books were called "Xi bu", "Tong bu", "Tu Jin" and "Bao bu". Influenced by the advanced technology of the Han nationality, Tujia people changed their short cloth into apron and transformed the cloak into a dress by using self woven dyed cloth and earth brocade.

Different Clothes & Accessories It is an important sign to distinguish different nationalities. With the development of the times and the progress of society, although the Tujia dress has undergone changes, it still retains its traditional characteristics.

Male: head wrapped green silk handkerchief or green cloth, white cloth par 2.3 to 3 meters, the adult character road. The older coat was called "Pipa", and the bronze buckles were placed on the edge of the garment, and the "Silver Hook" was embroidered on the edge of the garment. Then gradually wore full of plaid (more than middle-aged) and pairs of corsets. The young people wore more pairs of corsets, and five to seven pairs of buckles were placed in the middle. Trousers are green, blue cloth and white cloth waist, shoes are sorghum white shoes.

Women: head wrapped 1.7 to 2.3 meters of green silk or green cloth, no herringbone road. Coat cloth: 1, big top, left open sleeve sleeves big and short, no collar, rolled edge, skirts and cuffs have two different green edges, but not lace. Two, silver hook, this kind of clothes is a short collar, the skirt and cuffs are wide green edges, the cuffs are green edges, plus three five colored plum edges, and the green edges are embroidered with colored lines. Three, three strands, large sleeves, cuffs 16.5 cm wide, 1.65 cm high, with three thin edges. Four, the wedding dress, the bride likes to wear "dew clothes" (that is, red clothes), this kind of clothing is long and big.

Women's shoes are more particular. Besides the "shoe dog's teeth", the upper is often made of green, blue and pink silk. The front of the shoe is embroidered with different colors of silk, flowers, butterflies and bees.

Embroidered insole is the most precious gift that a girl gives to the person in mind. The production of this insole is first dried with flour paste cloth, then cut out the insole pattern with paper. After painting the grid, the patterns of green or blue, white, red, green, yellow, purple and other multicolored lines are manually drawn.

Children's clothes are highlighted on their caps. Hat shape is determined according to age and season: for example, wearing "purple golden crown" in spring and autumn, wearing "wax gourd circle" in summer, and wearing "dog cap", "fish tail cap" and "wind cap" in winter. These hats are embroidered with five colored silk threads, such as "magpie making plum", "Phoenix wearing peony" and "long life and rich", "easy to raise adults", "Fu Lu Shou Xi" and other flowers and birds and characters. On the front of the hat, there are "big eight Immortals", "small eight immortals", "Eighteen Lohan" and other silver Bodhisattvas.

Sleeves and trouser legs of Tujia women's costumes pattern The method of "cross stitch" is used entirely, that is to say, the needles are connected with lines or squares on needles, and then combined into patterns of flowers, birds, fish and insects. In composition, the use of color transformation reflects the feeling of rhythm. With the color green, red, yellow or yellow, green and red, this same color, not changing the shape and changing color method, to promote stiff, single continuous patterns rich, gorgeous and colorful, to give people the enjoyment of beauty. These exquisite costumes are the wisdom of Tujia people and the treasures of national costumes.

In the hearts of Tujia people, red is the most popular color. Red has a warm, bright, striking and similar feeling, so many people like red. The color will be red. As time goes by, not only will there be no red but also red in the clothing and in life. Due to the suppression of the feudal dynasties and the strong influence of the Central Plains culture, the dress of men and women in the Tujia nationality were all full of styles, which changed the national costume of "men's and women's clothes", and the Tujia family's lace, maintaining the strong characteristics of the national costume.

Tujia women wear no collar full coat. The garment is left to the left. From the top to the hem, to the dress and foot embroidered with an inch of five wide lace, each sleeve has one big two small three lace, big lace five inches wide, small lace has finger breadth. The sleeves are two feet wide and the width of the lace is the same as that of the sleeves, and the trousers are about one foot and five inches. In addition, the chest apron apron, commonly known as "Mom skirt", is a semicircle on the apron, a triangle below, and a circle of lace from the upper half circle and the lower foot, about an inch wide. The apron is embroidered with flowers about five inches on the chest, and the girth is made of multicolored silk thread. It is usually two feet long, with three inches of weave flowers on both ends. It shows the ingenuity of Tujia women.

Tujia minority children's underwear is not much attention, the main concern is Shoes and Hats 。 A child usually wears a cat tail and a hat, with thirteen gold figures on the top of his hat. The middle one is a statue of the goddess of mercy. There are eighteen rattans on both sides. There are silver hooks on both sides of the tiger's hat to the two cheeks. They are used for children's caps. The tiger's ears made of white rabbit hair on the sides of the hat are hung on the top. The tiger's cap is made of red silk and satin. The front eaves embroidered with a "King" character, and the rear brain embroiders two dragon robbing designs. Children's shoes are also tiger shoes; they are made of red silk and satin, and the tips of shoes are turned back. Two ears are inserted into rabbit hair, embroidered with a "King" character, embroidered on both sides. Tujia people are tiger tigers. Children wear tiger caps and tiger shoes. They are surrounded by the tiger. Evil can not be violated, but they can avoid evil and strengthen the prestige. They can make children appear innocent, lively and intelligent.

Tujia men usually wear a full coat with the characteristics of Pipa lapel, with cloth buttons, high collar, long sleeves, and cuffed sleeves. The trousers are all blue and blue. The trousers are bigger and shorter, the styles are generous, and they are easy to work and rest.